In the fourth of our twenty-fourth Young Blood Sommelier series (it’s astonishing really), we interview some of the most talented up-and-coming sommeliers in Ontario and beyond.
A few years back Many years ago, I was flicking through the pages of a locally published periodical and noticed that, when it came to sommeliers, the same names seemed to pop up over and over again. I was also gradually becoming cognisant of the fact that we more established wine folks were well and truly “losing our edge” to these young blood sommeliers. Being well aware of the depth of new talent that was out there, I finally decided to get together with a couple of fellow Toronto sommeliers, “Old Guard” (Anton Potvin and Peter Boyd) to assemble a line of questioning that would give us an entertaining insight into the minds of these rising and often underexposed stars.
This month we speak with Ashleigh Forster, sommelier at Toronto’s DaNico.
Good Food Revolution: So, Ashleigh, what is it that you are doing these days?
Ashleigh Forster: I am working as the Head Sommelier at DaNico. It’s a small, mainly, tasting menu Italian restaurant in little Italy.
GFR: Please describe a regular workday. What does a normal day entail for you? Is there a normal day?
Ashley Forster: Every morning I have my morning coffee and review emails and OpenTable reservations for the night, making note of any return guests, moments of celebration etc. Our restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday so I typically arrive a little earlier on Wednesdays as this is our big delivery day.
I get to DaNico around 1:30-2:00 pm and grab a coffee from the little shop a couple doors down from us. Manic, the nicest staff and great coffee (and cookies). I start dealing with the deliveries, getting everything put away and sorted. I start cleaning up the wine stations, wiping everything down and getting all of our by the glass and pairing wines ready for the night. I connect with our GM, Marco Manzoni, prior to pre shift and ensure we are on the same page for the coming week and discuss any major events, guests of note or any of the other 100 things that tend to come up. 4:20pm is our lineup after which we all detail our respective sections and ensure things are perfect for doors at 5pm.
If we have a bit of a later start, I’ll scoot down to the office and get any admin done. List edits, budgets, inventory assessments, orders, etc. Our push is usually 6:30-10 pm, so I’m usually running from table to table. We are a pairing restaurant, so that takes up a lot of my time during service. Once things slow down I’ll tidy up and start to close down all wine stations and get to spend a little more time touching tables.
If I’m not closing the restaurant, I can usually be out by 11:30 or so. A few times a week, it’s a little later if I’m the one locking up. I try to use the hours between waiting for the dishwashers to finish and setting the alarm to print off any 86 pages and finish up any admin I didn’t get to earlier in the day.
GFR: Thankfully, we are on the other side of this pandemic. How did the pandemic impact your professional life? And how have you bounced back?
AF: At the time I was heart broken. The pandemic pulled me off a job I was so in love with. I was Anne Martin’s right hand for wine at the Scotiabank arena. She has been my mentor since I began my wine career. The arena was the first place to close and the VERY last place to reopen. It was quite difficult mentally at first.
As is the case in many paths in life, they often take a turn you don’t expect and may not love at the moment, but it usually turns out to be ok in the end.
Because of the pandemic I went to work at Peter Pantry, one of Toronto’s first bottle shops, for Nick Oliveiro. It was a completely different experience than I had had before and he is a really creative and exploratory type of somm., so it was a lot of fun.
We did Zooms, packed wines in little airtight packs, and I gained the experience of selling retail wine for the first time. It was a wild and confusing time but we had a lot of fun.
This led to the opportunity of working at Eataly. I started out as a beverage manager and worked up to GM of Beverage. We worked exclusively with Italian wine so that helped my love for Italian wine explode into the absolute love affair it is today. It also allowed me to visit Italy twice, which was incredibly memorable. Every time I go back to Italy, I fall more in love. All of these professional twists and turns led me to where I am now.
I honestly don’t think any of these moments would’ve happened without the pandemic because it just jolted my whole world into a completely different direction. I still hate that stupid virus but it can be funny where life takes you.
GFR: How do you feel the pandemic impacted the restaurant experience long-term?
AF: I think it did more bad than good. I think. I mean, I don’t know; I think quality and level of service have slipped across the board.
The industry lost so many good servers, managers, etc.- because they just needed to find something more stable in unstable times.
The length of the shutdowns in Toronto were long and severe. It was tough for all of us. I can’t even fathom what it would have felt like to be a small restaurant owner. After we reopened, people just needed bodies on the floor, and not all those bodies cared to be there or should have been.
It also affected how guests dine. I think the diner had raised expectations. Maybe it was that they cooked at home so much more and thought, “I can do this at home. Why can’t you adjust to exactly what I want?”
But also, the PHONES! The phone culture at tables now is not what I remember it to be. I think we spent so much time at home in front of our TVs and phones that they haven’t left people’s hands since.
Aside from the obvious closures of some incredible places, I think it’s taken our industry a lot longer to bounce back and I really don’t see us as completely there yet. It also seems the slightest shift in the economy seems to impact us more than it would have pre pandemic.
GFR: How aware of wine were you while growing up? Were you around wine from an early age?
AF: Haha, there has always been wine around the dinner table, and I was always allowed to take sips, and when I was 15 or 16, I was given a little glass of my own at dinner time.
I’m the youngest of 5 siblings, so I usually got to do things a little before most people my age since I just tagged along with my older siblings. We are a family that had dinner together around the table every night and it was never rushed (nobody had phones at the table, that wasn’t even a thing then) so the art of dining has always been ingrained in me. Food and wine just are always together.
GFR: Can you remember your first taste of wine?
AF: I can’t recall exactly, but I do know one of the first little glasses I was given as a teen was from a magnum of Jackson Triggs white. Admittedly very humble beginnings. I still go home and sip on the world’s simplest Pinot Grigio with my parents, but it just makes me happy. Wine is really about the shared experience.
GFR: When do YOU feel children should be introduced to the wonderful world of wine?
AF: I don’t have a serious opinion on the matter. I don’t have any children and don’t plan on it so far be it for me to give advice on something I have no real idea about.
I think whatever feels right for you and your family. I do think the less you make alcohol this dangerous thing you restrict your teens from, the more they may rebel against you and experience it in a less than healthy environment.
GFR: So who or what gave you your very first insight into the world of wine? Did you have a wine epiphany?
AF: I don’t know if it was an actual epiphany or more just a culmination of moments throughout my life that made sense when I started to study wine.
I have always worked in the restaurant world. I started in the back of house at my on campus pub, then after a few years switched to serving. I served for years and loved it. But as I’m sure many of my colleagues my age, my parents didn’t see this as a longstanding career choice, despite the fact that I was making very good money as a server.
So I went back to school and started my first ‘official career’ in fashion. I did it for a few years, but the industry is pretty toxic, and my heart just belongs to the world of restaurants. Those are my people. The fashion crowd was definitely not. So after leaving that career behind, I went back into serving just to clear my head and pay bills with ease.
My partner at the time was a GM of a high end steakhouse, so we both had the cash and flexibility to travel a bit, and we started going to Michelin restaurants and paying more attention to wine programs in the city. Once I started to see how special the world of wine truly is, I decided to take my first wine course, and that was it. I was hooked.
GFR: Please tell us a little about your “Sommelier history”. What kind of experience and training, wine-wise, did you have before doing what you are doing today? And looking back, if you could, would you have made different decisions?
AF: I started out studying and taking a few WSET courses while I was still serving. Then I sought out my first wine job. It was for Anne Martin at the ScotiaBank Arena and I was her wine porter.
I was thrilled to have the job and learned so much. In such a little period of time. It’s what really got me ready for my Certified exam. Being around such a fast-paced, intense environment with so many different bottles was such a valuable experience. The wine list has to be one of the biggest in the city.
I worked there for a few years, then headed off to open up the first Alo Bar in Yorkville. After working there just over a year I headed back to the arena and took on a more senior role under Anne. I remained there until the pandemic.
I have been very lucky with the opportunities I’ve been given and am very grateful for each.
GFR: You worked with two iconic figures in the Toronto wine scene, Anne Martin and Christopher Sealy. I’d love to hear your take on their different management styles and palates.
AF: They are both powerhouses in the Toronto wine scene, so I’m incredibly lucky to have worked under both. They couldn’t be more opposite in some respects too. Which, when I think about it was also very beneficial. You get to learn from two totally different styles, which helps you find your own way.
Christopher had this ease about him on the floor. I don’t know if you have ever been served by him, but he relates everything back to music. He is a great storyteller and is not pretentious about wine. He taught me a lot about the fun side of being a somm and that things are more than just the bottle or the liquid you pour.
Anne, she was what I wanted to be. She has a great palate and can work the floor in peak crazy rush without breaking a sweat. The moments you’re in the shits and things get wild, I keep my cool because of working with her. She doesn’t dwell; she thinks fast, finds a solution, and keeps it moving. If you ever have an intense service ahead, you’d want her by your side. She also buys an insane amount of wine with such confidence and certainty and runs a team of 10+ somms every season, which is no easy task.
GFR: When did you first decide that you would actually like a career in wine? … and was it with a view to being a Sommelier?
AF: I guess it was answered a few questions ago. But the idea of somm was always pretty clear to me. Once I knew wine was what I actually wanted to be involved with for the rest of my life. I never wanted to be an agent. I admire them, and the good ones greatly, because I could never be successful at it. I’m actually pretty timid and shy at heart, and pounding the pavement, knocking on doors, seems somewhat overwhelming to me. Plus I just love the floor, anytime my job grows in the direction of removing me from the floor and placing me in more meetings is when i get a little less satisfied.
GFR: Tell us a little about how you find the food and wine scene in Toronto?
AF: Hmmmmm I don’t think I’m a fair judge. I’m a massive homebody and a creature of comfort, so I probably don’t have the best dialled-in idea about what’s actually going on.
I know what I like and don’t like, but I also know I’m probably not representing the majority. I think we have a lot of choices, and there’s tons of places doing some cool things. For me, it has to be more than the food and the wine. It’s when an entire service seamlessly comes together in front of you. Probably not so effortlessly, although that is how it appears. In my mind, those are the most special places. I want to know if the people handing me my food or pouring my wine actually care and think what they are doing is good. You can tell when they don’t, and it’s rough.
GFR: Please give me a little insight into the wine program at DaNico.
AF: There’s essentially three pillars. The most important, or something that sets DaNico apart and where I tend to have the most fun, is the pairing menus.
We offer two different tiers.
The ‘Classic’ is where I get to have the most fun. It’s heavily based in the Italian wine world, and I try to utilize a lot of my favourite indigenous grapes that a lot of our guests have never experienced before; Pelaverga, Grignonlino, Bellone for example.
The ‘Premium’ hones in on back vintage, small allocation, and sought-after producers. It’s a little flashier. I love both, and my favourites vary between dishes but I’m incredibly proud of both and think they both offer great value and an excellent DaNico experience.
But also, at the end of the day the food is the guide here. It’s all about what works and what doesn’t. There’s definitely a few wines I was heartbroken about that I couldn’t use on the pairing because they just weren’t as good as another option, despite how much I loved that particular bottle.
We then have quite an extensive BTG offering. This is also really important because we also offer a three course a la carte menu that I do a lot of custom pairings for, which I’ll lean on a lot of the BTG for. I also get to support a lot more local wines here, which I think is important.
Lastly, and obviously the most extensive, is our bottle list. Although we are just over the 1 year mark as a restaurant, we have a substantial BTB list with lots of back vintage and top tier producers. It’s roughly 700 offerings and I look forward to really building it out.
GFR: You studied Sociology and Anthropology. Have you found many transferable skills you learned during your studies that can be applied to your career today?
AF: Hahah I mean, it definitely gave me insight into how people operate, but to be perfectly honest, it’s the 21+ years working in restaurants that have had the most help. You develop a sixth sense for reading your guests instantly.
GFR: Let’s talk about your recent recognition, the Michelin Toronto 2024 Sommelier Award.
How did that come about, and what does it mean to you?
AF: That was a wild moment. This is my first delve into that world and it’s intense. Haha.
We had a lot of potential inspectors and I poured a lot of pairings for people that could or could not have been. Every time I think, ‘Oh my gosh, don’t mess this up, don’t cost chef his star’ because never once was the somm award on my mind.
We are a brand new restaurant with a new program. Yes, Jules Garton the Liberty Grande Wine Director and I worked hard on putting together a great program. She secured us a lot of back vintage and special bottles and I really loved working on honing the pairings to perfection, but the award was never a goal.
It was an incredible moment but honestly it gave me a lot of anxiety and I struggled with a bit of imposter syndrome. I’m still so new in this world, only getting certified in 2018, that I really struggled with accepting any congratulations. I’m very proud of the program and very proud of the wines I choose to pour and I try to keep telling myself that.
GFR: The Sommelier world is notoriously full of pretentious arseholes, and after seeing that film Somm a few years ago, I still worry about the emergence of a new Wine Bro culture… Also, I have picked up on a LOT of that vibe from some of the usual suspects in the mixology crowd—full-on Jordan Peterson fans and all that stuff. Believe it or not, I saw one of the usual suspects defend Andrew Tate recently. What the hell is going on there? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
AF: I have zero time or energy for that crap.
The amount of pontificating that goes on when you throw a few somms together makes my stomach turn.
I am all for sharing knowledge with one another; teaching and learning with and from fellow somms is one of the great things about our community but the peacocking silliness is too much. There is always going to be something you can learn from someone else regardless of their certification level, the amount of awards they have collected or any other way people need to stack themselves up against one another.
I’ve worked with some really green somms that have taught me things and with some incredibly knowledgeable ones that I’ve taught a thing or two to. Unfortunately, humility is not our most well known trait as a community.
GFR: Speaking of which, we are having some really important conversations right now about the prevalence of sexual harassment in the workplace and what can be done to eradicate it from the culture.
I’d be interested to hear your take on the topic and perhaps what you have witnessed yourself during your time in the restaurant world. Big question, I know, but I feel it’s a topic that deserves discussion.
AF: It’s kinda crazy how the different the culture is from when I first started in the industry.
It’s definitely less prevalent and called out much more, but it’s still around. I think I experienced more when I was a server than when I was a somm.
As a somm I would say it was more about gender inequality and being spoken to in a less respectful tone or mindset. I wasn’t a young girl when I got into this world, and if you know me, I’m pretty feisty if I need to be. I can definitely turn on the ‘don’t fuck with me’ energy. I’m not saying women above a certain age don’t get harassed because that’s not true, but I definitely think the predatory behaviour of the gross cowards that behave in such a manner tends to prey on the younger women who might be less likely to speak up.
However, a girlfriend of mine just told me about a pretty gross story of a colleague being inappropriate with her and she’s a firecracker so honestly, who the hell knows? There are shit dudes out there and unfortunately our business is riddled with alcohol and when you put those two things together, the result is usually garbage behaviour.
GFR: So, natural wine is basically the new normal in many places… I’m pretty choosy when it comes to my personal forays into that world. What’s your take?
AF: It’s never really been for me. I get that it has a place in the wine world but I think there is a lot of bad wine out there using the term ‘natural’ as an excuse for garbage.
‘Natural’ wine is nothing new but allowing mousy crap to be peddled as something that has any place on a list or shelf is just not ok.
Clearly, I feel a little strongly about this. It does seem to be dissipating slightly in Toronto. It was all anyone was drinking a few years back. I also have never worked for a restaurant where these made sense and I don’t really hang out at bars that push this junk so it’s not really in my little sphere.
GFR: How would you say that your palate has evolved over the years?
For example, I went through an old vine Zinfandel phase. I revisited such wines last year… Hmmmm… interesting, but really not for me any more. Although, saying that, I’ve been quite enjoying some of them again recently!
AF: I guess everyone’s palate evolves over the years. I don’t think anyone starts out understanding the complexity of an aged Barolo or how insane a good white Burg can truly be. I remember when I first started out drinking wine, I thought Carménère was incredibly sophisticated, no shade to the grape, but it’s just something that makes me look back on and smile. I remember my partner and I way back when telling our friends how good this one bottle was. I think it was called Root 1?! Anyway, we should have received a commission; we probably helped the sales spike at one point.
GFR: How do you feel about Canadian wines?
AF: We are like anywhere else. We have some great, good, bad, and very ugly. We are also just a baby and I think the leaps and bounds we’ve made in quality is monster, speaking of Ontario in particular.
GFR: What do you think we do well here in Canada?
AF: I love our Chards. I think we have some incredible Chardonnay producers that I’m always thrilled to pour for guests and myself. I also really like our Pinot Noirs and Cab Francs.
GFR: And what do you feel we should really give up on?
AF: I mean, I think we can all agree Baco should probably kick the can.
GFR: How do you feel about Canadian support for our local wine industry?
AF: I think it’s pretty lacklustre. I run a few different Ontario wines BTG and I constantly have people refuse them before tasting as soon as they discover where they are from. I try my best to pour them without the label showing and just let the wines speak for themselves, but it doesn’t always work. Just the other day I had a guest shake his head and scoff before tasting the wine when I told him it was a Canadian wine. It’s incredibly annoying.
GFR: People are still like that? Bloody hell, I thought that was very much in the past.
Just as there is everywhere in the world, there is quite a lot of dreadful wine coming from Canada (BC, Quebec, Ontario, et al.). How do you feel about the issue of people simply promoting something because it is local and not because of its quality?
AF: I really don’t understand that. I don’t care where the wine is from, who made it, or anything else. If the wine is good and it makes sense for your program, you should pour it.
If the wine is bad, it’s bad. It is similar in my mind to the ‘natural’ wine thing.
Bad wine shouldn’t have a place.
GFR: Does your work allow you to travel much?
That’s one thing that I really missed through the pandemic: going on wine trips.
AF: I’ve been pretty lucky over the past few years.
GFR: Which wine regions have you had the opportunity to visit over the years?
AF: I’ve travelled around Italy on four separate occasions. I just spent an intensive six days in Chianti Classico, which was extremely rewarding. It was nice to stay in one area and really do a deep dive.
Of course, I’ve also been able to explore the wineries of Ontario in both Niagara and PEC.
GFR: Is there anywhere you would really like to visit? And why?
AF: I have yet to spend any time in France. I think seeing Burgundy would be incredible, obviously. Champagne, of course. A girlfriend just moved to the Canary Islands, and I’d love to have her show me around there.
Honestly anywhere.
Understanding a region is so much more digestible if you’ve stood in the place. Walking the vineyards, seeing the landscape firsthand, how the sun hits the vines. It cements itself in your head and makes everything you read moving forward so much clearer.
GFR: Have you ever made your own wine?
AF: I haven’t. It’s something that’s always piqued my interest, even more so lately.
GFR: And where would you like to make wine (in a pipe dream)?
AF: Piemonte. Hands down. I adore Nebbiolo, and the whites from the region are some of my favourites too. Italian whites are incredible.
GFR: What have been your career highs and lows?
AF: I think there have been both, but really the highs wildly outweigh the lows.
I’ve been really lucky to have worked with the people I have and gotten the opportunities I have. I’m not saying anything was just handed to me; I’m an incredibly hard worker, but I’m grateful that in such a short period of time I have the resumé I do with the experiences I’ve had.
GFR: Who is, in your mind, a real role model for Sommeliers?
AF: Obviously, my respect for Anne Martin is pretty clear.
There’s some great ones out there . I respect anyone who teaches without being pompous.
I respect anyone that makes people feel welcome and a part of this world.
My current Wine Director, Jules, runs a pretty tight ship. She oversees so many different properties, all with their own wine focus. She juggles all that and still makes sure to be present on the floor at all properties at least once a week. It’s a lot, and it’s a crazy work ethic I think all could learn from.
GFR: And for Wine Agents/Importers?
AF: I think there are some great agents and some not so great.
The relationships between somms and agents are so key. Having good reps really makes our job so much easier. I’m sure there are lots of things both sides have to say about the other. I’m sure we could all respond to their emails a little quicker.
A good agent has a rough understanding of your program and doesn’t waste your time with wines that make zero sense for you. Communication is key too. The amount of times I go to reorder wines I’m working with for my BTG or pairing menus and get a “oh we are sold out” email.
But I’m lucky. I’ve developed some great relationships over the years and consider some to be friends. I know how a lot of them got treated badly during the pandemic, and it was pretty shitty. Understanding should always be at the forefront.
GFR: Do you have nightmares about working with wine? I do it regularly, and it usually involves being unable to find bottles in a cellar. And the clock is ticking away. I have them all the time, and I haven’t been in the role for over 15 bloody years!!!
AF: Oh gosh, all the time! They vary but usually involve a floor that just keeps getting sat, and I’m running around trying to find bottles that aren’t anywhere or missing an entire pairing at a table. Ugh, I have anxiety just thinking about them.
GFR: Wine folks famously have their Sundays off… What’s your idea of a perfect Sunday?
AF: Currently I have Mondays and Tuesdays off. I usually treat Monday as my relax day, and Tuesday is my productive, get things done day.
My partner is also in the industry, so he tries to ensure we get one of those days together. We will usually have a slow morning, coffee in bed, and relaxing. We’ll do a little workout together and then head out for the afternoon. We live rRverside / Leslieville so we will usually meander down Queen East.
Our favourite brewery has a great happy hour, so we will usually pop in for a beer or two and then grab some groceries for dinner. One of us will cook and the other will keep them company sitting at our island playing DJ and pouring the wine. We always have some tally going about who’s winning at poker or dominoes, and we will play for a bit after dinner and then watch a few episodes of whatever show it is we are currently watching together.
GFR: Where are your favourite places to dine and drink locally these days… Perhaps tell us a personal hidden treasure of yours.
AF: Eastbound Brewery is the place I was talking about. They also have great homemade chips and queso, which we love. On the rare nights we don’t cook dinner at home, there’s a few places we will go.
Lunch: Buster’s Sea Cove at St. Lawrence Market is great. The swordfish sandwich is perfect.
Dinner: The Comrade. The burger is hands down one of the best in the city. The room is cozy with good music and decent cocktails.
GFR: Do you like to cook yourself? What’s your favourite dish to cook these days?
AF: Since we just entered fall, I’ve been making a lot of soup. I could eat soup every day. It’s always great to have a big batch, so it’s really easy to eat something healthy when I get home late from work.
I love risotto, so that’s usually a go-to on a day off. Depending on the season, the flavors will change.
My partner is a great cook and he will do a lot of different dishes. He makes a great Boeuf bourguignon. One of my all time favorite dishes.
GFR: And have you had any cooking disasters recently?
AF: Disasters? Not really. Dwindled intentions where we end up ordering in despite groceries in the fridge. Definitely.
GFR: Do you feel that there is a good Sommelier community in Toronto?
AF: I have mixed feelings on this. I think I felt very excluded when I first came onto the scene, and the ‘cool kids’ were pretty obvious about keeping their space theirs. There’s some great people in the community that are welcoming and embrace newbies, but there are lots that are a little gatekeepy and very cliquey, but I guess that’s the same for most industries.
GFR: Very interesting.
Do you hang out often with other Sommeliers? And if you do, do you only shoot the shit about wine?
AF: I don’t. I’m a big homebody and really just want to spend time with my partner and dog. I do want to make a bit of a better effort to connect more with people in the industry.
GFR: Do you have many non-industry friends… How do they feel about what you do for a living?
AF: Most think it’s more glamorous than it is.
GFR: What do you feel you would be doing if you were not doing what you are doing today?
AF: it’s hard to imagine because I’ve been in the restaurant world for almost my whole working life. I’ve always dreamt of running a rescue for senior dogs.
I starting adopting senior dogs 10 years ago and it’s been the best thing I’ve ever done. Senior rescues are the sweetest babies in the world. They just want to snuggle and nap. Very much my speed.
GFR: Do you have a favourite food/wine-related scene in a film/movie or show?
AF: The Birdcage has been one of my most favourite movies since I was 14. It’s hilarious, but there is one scene where Robin Williams discovers their housekeeper, Agador Spartacus, only made soup for their dinner party. It’s one of the most hilarious physical comedy moments where he slams some wine right out of the bottle, falls, throws shrimp and rushes out. I’ve re watched that scene a million times and it still makes me laugh.
GFR: What are your thoughts on blind-tasting wine?
AF: I think it’s great. Very humbling but always educational. And can be fun if you aren’t too hard on yourself.
GFR: Are you a better blind taster with or without a bad hangover? I’m definitely the former…
AF: I’m not great at anything with a bad hangover. I just turned 40 and my hangovers have gotten much worse over the years. Even thinking about having a hangover gives me anxiety.
GFR: Some of the best tasters I know are heavy smokers… What are your thoughts there?
AF: I don’t know many heavy smokers who are somms, but I know a lot of chefs who are, and they have incredible palates. I think whatever works for you, great.
GFR: In your mind, what is “hot” in the world of wine right now? And why?
AF: In terms of the general public, it’s been nice to see a shift in their palate. Guests have definitely started to appreciate lighter reds, which is nice.
Our Pelaverga and Etna Rosso are our two best selling BTG reds. That wouldn’t have been the case a while ago.
I’m sure this is influenced by my personal opinion, but I think the pendulum swung so far to the world of natural funk that it’s now started to come back to appreciating the classics and just beautifully made good wine.
Also, NA. I get asked a lot more for non alcoholic pairings. Some nights I’m shocked at our non alcoholic cocktail and sparkling wine sales. I need to dive deeper into the non alc still wine world. I haven’t come across one I’m actually impressed with, but
I’d like to create a solid non alc pairing I’m really proud of. But consumption is down, and we need to embrace it.
GFR: Aside from these fashions in wine drinking, what’s your current favourite wine style/region? And why?
AF: Whites from Italy are what I grab the most. Fiano, Ribolla Gialla, Etna Bianco, Timorasso, and Arneis. Honestly, I could drink Italian whites for the rest of my life and be very happy. I can also actually afford them.
GFR: I hear you on that!
And what’s not so hot? What has fallen out of favour? Why do you feel that way?
AF: God, I hope the natural wine movement. If that hasn’t been made abundantly clear already.
GFR: Roger that!
When it comes to wine, is there anything that you feel is terribly overrated? And why?
AF: Aside from the above?! Haha. I think it’s just the snobbery. There’s a fine line between teaching your guest or a fellow Somm something and making them feel stupid.
GFR: What is your favourite wine pairing right now—something nice and seasonal?
AF: We do this really beautiful Miso Cod with chantarelle mushrooms and vermouth bianco sauce, and I pair it with Livio Felluga’s Ribolla Gialla. It’s pretty spectacular. I’m also pouring Castello di Verduno’s Massara 2016 with this black alba truffle pasta. Another personal fave.
GFR: What is your least favourite part of your job as a Sommelier? For me, it was the f****** inventory. Oh, and breaking down boxes… and the resultant papercuts (I have such soft hands!)
AF: I actually liked inventory. I know it’s tedious and somewhat annoying but having a monthly reminder of exactly everything you have—numbers of bottles, etc.—I found rewarding and handy. We have an outside company count for us every two weeks at the company I’m with now and it’s not my favourite. They are great and all but I just find it easier to correct any miscounts, variances, etc. if I’m the one personally counting.
I think it’s the printing and reprinting. We have these really nice wine list covers but the screws that bind them are annoying and swapping out pages for all the lists before a shift is so time consuming. The time I waste stuffing menus, ugh, it’s definitely my least favourite part.
GFR: What is your weapon of choice when it comes to a corkscrew? And why?
AF: Don’t shame me; I’ll use whatever. I’ve never owned a really fancy expensive one so maybe it’s like riding in first class. Unless you’ve done it, you don’t really know what you’re missing, so it’s not that big a deal.
I guess the only thing it has to be is a double hinge.
GFR: Due to us being around alcohol, many people in our industry often have quite the increased tolerance for wine/booze, or they develop issues. What is your limit, and how do you keep yourself in check?
AF: My tolerance is definitely higher than the average bear . I just don’t really go out so I don’t stress over it. If my partner and I have a couple, we head home pretty soon after, so being tipsy at home together is always silly and fun.
GFR: There’s a lot of open discourse right now around the topic of both drug and alcohol abuse within the restaurant/wine world. Would you care to share a few of your thoughts about that side of the business? To be quite frank with you, the thing I miss the LEAST about working in that environment is the late nights of drinking and recreational pharmaceuticals. I don’t think my body could take it any longer anyway!
AF: I definitely partook in the late nights years ago but I’m with you; my body just can’t take it anymore. I don’t typically go out anymore. If I do, it’s usually a late lunch with a girlfriend or something, and we share some wine. A tipsy lunch date is the craziest I get nowadays.
GFR: Speaking of which, have you ever been “cut off”? If so, where and when was the most recent time? I think it happened to me back in Scotland once… hazy memories… at the City Café.
AF: Haha, not really. My friends always host friendsgiving. It’s a big, long day with corn hole, cards, and a fire. One year the bourbon was flowing a little too freely but that’s about it.
GFR: Which leads rather neatly into the next question… do you happen to have a good hangover cure? None of the cures given to me by previous interviewees have really done the job for me… well, apart from the suggestion about CBD gummies.
AF: Nothing has ever really worked for me. I also don’t sleep well, and worse if I drank the night before, so the only thing that works is just don’t get drunk.
GFR: How many wines do you “taste” in a week these days?
AF: A lot! We have 16 different wines for the two pairing menus, 22ish wines BTG and we taste every bottle we open for our guests. Five days a week on the floor and it’s results in a lot of tasting. But it’s good. It keeps your palate sharp.
GFR: When tasting with agents, do you choose to spit or swallow?
AF: 99.9% spit. If it’s something really special, I’ll swallow. But that’s usually only one wine per tasting.
GFR: What’s your “house” wine at home right now?
AF: It varies but my partner and I have pretty similar tastes but he’s more into red. I’ve gotten him on the whites more and more, but if we share a bottle, its usually a Langhe Nebbiolo or Etna Rosso. He likes bigger whites so something from Campania or white Burg.
GFR: Most remembered glass of wine ever?
AF: JL Chave Hermitage 02 and 08 side by side. A Somm friend of mine could buy wines at cost from a restaurant he worked for. It was mind blowing. I sat and just smelt them for what seemed like forever. I couldn’t believe what was in my glass. So complex and layered.
GFR: What is your perfect glass (or bottle) of wine at the end of a crazy day at work?
AF: A beer. A very cold Peroni is usually what I’ll grab after locking up and shutting down the restaurant. Or the dead bubbles; this is usually a nice treat on a Sunday night before we close for two days. We have a pretty delicious bubbles BTG program.
We use the Coravin sparkling system, which is the only reason we can run the bubbles BTG we do but some Sundays the few ounces of not the most vibrant effervescence are not worth the gas.
GFR: Coffee or tea?
AF: Coffee; I always wanted to be a tea person. I watched a lot of British tv growing up and maybe I just always thought it was more sophisticated but I just like coffee. Americano with whatever nondairy is available.
GFR: Lemon, horseradish, mignonette, or hot sauce?
AF: I love them all. I have a real love for Tobasco . I know it’s probably not great for a Somm but I almost always have Tobasco in my purse. Maybe it’s the equivalent of another Somm’s smoking.
GFR: I have honestly never heard of anyone carrying Tobasco in their purse before.
Vindaloo or Korma?
AF: Pho. I don’t know why, but I don’t eat a ton of Indian. I get pho at least once a week. It just makes me happy. but obviously lots of chili and sriracha
GFR: Milk or dark? And preferred cocoa content?
AF: I like 78%. It’s a good balance of bitter and sweet.
GFR: Ketchup, mayonnaise, or salt & vinegar?
AF: All the white vinegar. I used to drink the McDonalds vinegar packets as a kid. I know, it’s weird.
GFR: Yes, that is decidedly weird. I’ll give you that.
Blue, R, MR, M, MW, W, Charcoal?
AF: MR , Chicago is always pretty delicious too. Butter-induced char, you can’t get better than that.
GFR: Volatile acidity, brettanomyces, or mousiness? (Hehe…)
AF: Hahah, I actually struggle nailing VA as well as I do with any of the other faults.
I blame my childhood vinegar addiction mentioned above.
GFR: Thank you for taking the time, Ashleigh. It is very much appreciated. This is an extremely long interview, and those were some fascinating and amusing answers.
Edinburgh-born/Ontario-based sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, educator, and Dad, Jamie Drummond is the Director/Editor of Good Food Revolution.
Peter Boyd has been a part of Toronto’s wine scene for over two decades. He has taught the Diploma level for the International Sommeliers Guild, and has been the sommelier at Scaramouche Restaurant since 1993. He also writes about wine, food and pop culture and raises show molerats for fun and profit. He’s also one of the most solid guys in the business.Trust this man. Seriously… he seriously knows his shit and just celebrated his 85th birthday!
A well-known and much respected figure on the Toronto food and wine scene for almost twenty years, Potvin has worked in many of the city’s very best establishments including Biffs, Canoe, and Eau. In 2004 Potvin opened his incarnation of the Niagara Street Café, a restaurant that has gone from strength to strength year after year, with universal critical acclaim. Anton spends much of his time traveling and tasting wine and has been ranked highly in consecutive years of the International Wine Challenge. After working as GM at DaiLo with Chef Nick Liu and Sommelier Pete Hammond, Anton is now selling wine with Banville Wine Merchants and explores the world of mycology in his spare time.
