2018 Malivoire “Small Lot” Gamay, Niagara Escarpment VQA, Ontario, Canada (Alcohol 12%, Residual Sugar 2g/l) Winery and Online $44.95 (1.5l Magnum bottle)
Although I’m passionate about the better-made Gamay wines year-round, it’s usually throughout the months of November and December that I begin foisting them upon each and every person I happen to be sitting down for a drink with.
For those thus far unconvinced by this so-called “lowly” varietal I’d suggest that you give this 2018 Small Lot Gamay from Malivoire a try out… perhaps begin with a trial 750ml bottle at $29.95 and then move up to a magnum? C’mon, it’s only two bottles… the perfect size for sharing, and it goes down extremely easily, as I’m sure you’ll discover.
The greater majority of the juice goes into concrete fermenters, with the rest going into both stainless steel and oak, and 10% being fermented full-cluster and then blended back in. Post-fermentation the wine goes into neutral oak barrels and tanks for four months before bottling. The resultant wine captures all of the freshness and vibrancy that the Gamay grape is capable of, whilst also being wonderfully complex and mouthfilling. So basically a million miles removed from Beaujolais Nouveau, but essentially capturing that elusive snappy vivacity.
The nose is a simply irresistible cavalcade of red and black berry fruit, with a really nice peppery edge. The fruit-driven palate is gorgeously taut and crunchy, but with a subterfuge of tannic structure that’s not to be underestimated. And then there is a really impressive savoury finish to look forward to and then savour. This is certainly one of my favourite Ontario Gamay wines of the year, and in those magnums… Oh my goodness. This really does press all of the right buttons for me.
Grab some while you can, as these WONDERFUL bigger bottles are pretty limited.
(Four and a half apples out of five)
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And this will certainly be on the table on Xmas day around these parts.
