2022 Bodega Piedra Negra “Gran Lurton – Corte Friulano”, I.G. Los Chacayes, Uco Valley, Argentina (Alcohol 14%, Residual Sugar 2 g/l) LCBO Vintages $33 (750ml glass bottle)
Excluding the excellently quirky wines of El Enemigo, this wine from Piedra Negra is probably one of the more left-field examples I have tasted from Argentina. An lipsmacking blend of 80% Tocai Friulano and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, it’s certainly a wine for those who enjoy exploring the roads less travelled, that’s for sure.
These organically grown grapes (from 25-year-old vines, no less) are macerated before fermentation and ageing, the Tocai Friulano in first and second-use French oak barrels, and the Sauvignon Blanc in clay amphorae. This makes for an aromatically enchanting and thoroughly fascinating wine that is undeniably reminiscent of the wonderful wines of Friuli it is made in tribute to.
The 2022 vintage was, on average, cooler than the previous 22 years, making for a wine simply full of tension and thrilling nervous energy. Aromatically, there’s a fair bit going on, especially after one allows the wine to warm up in one’s glass, and much of this carries on to the juicy, textured palate: lemon/lime, elderflower, gooseberry, gently toasted pine nuts, a touch of tropical (papaya/passion fruit), and just a little hint of wood spice.
On the tongue, the wine is mouthwateringly juicy, with a pleasant creaminess filling out the palate. The aforementioned gooseberry note carries long into the extended chalky finish.
As this is a complex white wine, I’d probably serve it with more layered and complex dishes, but there is also an innate delicacy here that would allow it to pair well with simple white fish, poached or grilled with lemon and herbs.
(Four and a half out of five apples)
