2023 Croix de Marsan Blanc, Bordeaux, France (Alcohol 12.5%, Residual Sugar 3 g/l) LCBO Vintages $13.95 (750ml glass bottle)
It’s not often one sees such an elegant Bordeaux white at such an unbelievably low price point, but this bottling seriously overdelivers.
While it is not an incredibly complex wine, it’s most enjoyable and serves as a great introduction to the wonders of Bordeaux Blanc, a classic wine style we don’t see nearly enough of here in Ontario.
The aromatic pungency of the Sauvignon Blanc fruit (70% of the blend) is tempered somewhat by the 30% of Semillon, and so the wine comes over in a more elegant style than that piercing, punchy style that still appears to be so very popular around the globe. There’s a definite mineral aspect on the nose that I find most appealing, and seeing as this fruit comes from the clay/limestone hillsides and gravelly plateau of Entre-deux-Mers, this makes complete sense.
I normally enjoy my white wines a little warmer than most, but I’d make an exception with this one as it seemed to perform better in the glass with a pretty decent chill on it. If one allows it to warm in the glass a little, the bouquet does open up, but I like the crisp, bright, fresh citrus aspect it exhibits when served pretty cold.
In the mouth, the wine is snappy and rather frisky, with the Semillon building out the weight and bringing some lovely texture to the mid-palate. There’s a touch of leesiness here, also adding to the textural pleasure. The finish is moderate, but echoes the lemon/lime and minerals (think oyster shells) found on the nose.
The value here is absolutely outstanding.
While it’s quite an enjoyable glass all by itself, I’d enjoy this alongside herbed poached chicken, Bayonne ham, or a delicate fish mousseline. Last night it performed admirably with a simple cheese platter.
(Three and a half out of a possible five apples)
