2022 Craggy Range “Kidnapper’s Vineyard” Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand (Alcohol 13%, Residual Sugar 2 g/l) LCBO Vintages $32.95 (750ml glass bottle)
This lovely example of coastal Chardonnay from Craggy Range’s single vineyard on Cape Kidnappers, Hawkes Bay is one of the most Chablis-like examples I have ever tasted from the southern hemisphere. The location’s warm, shallow clay loam (sand/silt) soils bring a brisk salinity to both the bouquet and the palate that’s simply impossible to ignore.
The fruit is fermented with both natural and indigenous yeasts, 70% whole bunch, in stainless steel and French oak puncheons and foudre, before being matured for 11 months on lees in 15% new French oak puncheons.
The resultant wine has a fresh and fine bouquet of pineapple, orchard blossom, pleasant French oak spice, and a subtle nuttiness, while the palate gives rich peach, yellow plum, citrus, and a delectable chalky texture. In the mouth it’s remarkable crisp and lively, with a pleasantly weighty mid-palate before leading into a persistently chalky, saline finish.
I strongly feel that this wine really only comes into its own alongside food, so I’d suggest oysters on the half shell, langoustines, or wild BC Spot Prawns.
(Four and a half out of a possible five apples)
Craggy Range are represented in Ontario by Select Wines.
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