We’re thrilled to receive the latest releases of one of Tuscany’s rarest wines, Il Caberlot from Podere Il Carnasciale.
The romance of Il Caberlot started in the 1960s when Remigo Bordini discovered a unique clone growing in Veneto. The clone was a mysterious genetic mutation of Cabernet Franc which had characteristics of Merlot grapes. Remigo joined forces with Bettina and Wolf Rogosky to start planting this unique grape in 1986, in a vineyard of less than one acre. The Rogoskys were so excited about their newfound variety that they decided to plant a bottle of Sassicaia under the first Caberlot vine as a sign of positive energy.
True to Wolf Rogosky’s vision, the secluded hilltop estate of Podere Il Carnasciale, in the mountains of southern Chianti’s Valdarno region, turned out to be an ideal place to plant the charismatic Caberlot. Though Wolf passed away in 1996, the estate continued to be run by Bettina and her son Moritz Rogosky (and now, Moritz’s daughter Carla-Elle), in collaboration with the enologist and winemaker Peter Schilling and his assistant Marco Maffei. This proud team works exceptionally hard at producing world class wines, refusing to compromise on quality at any point from ground to glass. They share one goal when making their wines: quality above all.
We are offering a limited release of Il Caberlot 2019 (97 points, Vinous), along with sibling Carnasciale 2020.
Il Caberlot 2019
One of the rarest wines in Tuscany, the secluded hilltop estate of Podere Il Carnasciale, in the mountains of southern Chianti’s Valdarno region, is the only vineyard to cultivate Caberlot. The grape is a genetic mutation of Cabernet Franc, with distinct characteristics of Merlot. It was discovered in Veneto by Remigo Bordini, and planted in conjunction with Bettina and Wolf Rogosky at the Tuscan estate in 1986, with the aim of producing something entirely different from the Chianti of the time. Though the X on the label may look the same each year, it’s a different colour, and brushstroke, every vintage. This aged in French fûts and barriques, 50-60% new, for 22 months, and was racked only once prior to bottling unfiltered. The wine is typically bottled in magnums only (2000 annually), resting an additional 18 months prior to release. However, they release a limited number of ‘demi-magnums’ of 750ml, primarily for restaurants and importers. Dark and fleshy, with wild blackberry, black cherry, dark florals, anise, wild herbs, and sapid thorns stretched long across a structural palate. Tannins are ample and firmly grippy / gritty still, starting to yield, but signalling a long life ahead. Drinking beautifully now, but with another decade easy.
“The 2019 Il Caberlot (Sommeleria) is a powerful, intensely aromatic red from Il Carnasciale. Layers of flavor and texture build effortlessly, leading into a long, plush finish that is wonderfully inviting, even in the early going. Readers should note that the Sommeleria is not a new wine but the designation the estate has used for their 750ml bottling, mostly intended for restaurants, since 2013.” – 97 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Appellation : IGT Toscana
Region: Tuscany, Italy
Grape(s) : Caberlot Price : $542 for 1500mL (1 / case), and $277 for 750mL (6 / case)
Carnasciale 2020
Carnasciale is the second label of Il Carnasciale’s iconic Caberlot, ready for drinking earlier and made with young vines, but with all the layers, and care, given to its big brother. This Caberlot, a naturally occurring crossing of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, is cultivated exclusively at Podere Il Carnasciale. After a native stainless start to the ferment, MLF is finished in a French 40hl botte grande where it remains for 22 months, before bottling and 6 months’ rest prior to release. Ample dark florals and lashes of cracked pepper meet wild blackberry and cherry on the fleshy, savoury, and supple palate. Ample tannins are very well integrated, and acidity is bright and buzzy. Structural yet very drinkable now, this is a wine to seek out.
“The 2020 Carnasciale is gorgeous. A deeply pitched bouquet leads into a core of dark cherry / plum fruit, leather, spice, menthol, tobacco, and espresso. Intensely aromatic and deep on the palate, with fabulous depth, the 2020 is outrageously beautiful and full of character. Since 2019, Carnasciale has been a blend of fruit from younger vineyards, and aged in cask, rather than a true second wine, aged mostly in 40hL, plus a few barrels deselected from Caberlot.” – 92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
Appellation : IGT Toscana
Region: Tuscany, Italy
Grape(s) : Caberlot Price : $106 (6 / case)
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Cheers,
Le Sommelier
416.603.7026
bernard@lesommelier.com
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