Stock Restaurant’s Sommelier (and erstwhile GFR scribe) pours out the bubbles at a special media tasting
There has never been any doubt in my mind that Ontario has the potential to produce sparkling wines at a truly world-class level. This point was particularly driven home at the beginning of December when the Wine Council of Ontario invited a small group of media to Stock at The Trump Hotel, Toronto for the purpose of tasting through a specially selected flight of Ontario sparkling wines that was then followed by a lunch with accompanying sparkling pairings.
Having always looked upon Ontario as being able to produce nigh on perfect grapes for top quality sparkling (fully ripe fruit but with lower alcohol levels), it was most satisfying to taste such a strong flight, and then have the opportunity to taste another excellent flight alongside Chef Todd Clarmo‘s Triptych of Trios menu (see below for details).
I find it sad that so often the inherent synergy bewixt good sparkling and food is sadly forgotten, so much of it simply chugged down as a celebratory tipple all on its lonesome. It has to be said, alongside Clarmo’s complex savoury dishes and Pasty Chef David Chow‘s playful desserts, many of the wines truly sang.
Standouts for me were the new release “Carte Blanche” Blanc de Blancs from Henry Of Pelham and the Hinterland Ancestrale (tasted in context with the dessert trio).
Below are my scores on the wines tasted (all out of five apples)
First Group of Nine
Casa-Dea Estates Winery, Dea’s Rosé 2011 ($19.95)
Château des Charmes, Rosé Sparkling Wine, Estate Bottled 2009 ($28.95)
Angels Gate, Archangel Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs 2010 ($21.95)
Mike Weir Wine, Sparkling Brut 2009 ($24.95)
Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate, Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2008 ($22.95)
Cave Spring Cellars, Blanc de Blancs Brut (NV) ($29.95)
Flat Rock Cellars, 2008 Riddled ($24.95)
Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, Cuvée Catharine (NV) ($29.95)
Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, Cuvée Catharine Estate Blanc de Blancs
‘Carte Blanche’ 2007 ($44.95)
Ontario Sparkling & Culinary Tastes
∞ begin ∞
The Grange of Prince Edward, Sparkling Riesling 2010 ($24.95)
Trius Winery, Trius Brut (NV) ($24.95)
Tawse Winery, David’s Block Chardonnay “Spark” 2009 ($39.95)
∞ continue ∞
Huff Estates, Cuvée Peter F. Huff 2008 ($39.95)
Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, Cuvée Catharine Rosé (NV) ($29.95)
13th Street Winery, Premier Cuvée 2008 ($34.95)
∞ finish ∞
Cave Spring Cellars, Blanc de Noirs Brut 2006 ($34.95)
Inniskillin Wines, Sparkling Vidal Icewine 2011 ($79.95)
Hinterland, Ancestral 2012 ($25.00)
Cave Spring’s Angelo Pavan adressed the room, speaking of his personal experiences producing sparkling wine in Ontario
An excellent line-up of the very best in Ontario sparkling wines
Baby Kale & Heirloom Carrot Salad russet apple, québec goat cheese
Cold Poached Lobster Salad organic greek yogurt & bergamot dressing
Hamachi, Fennel & Citrus Crudo chilli & tarragon
Undeniably some of the best sparkling wine on the planet
Braised Veal Shank
yukon potato gnocchi, picholine olives
Roasted Magret of Duck a L’Orange buttered savoy cabbage
Maple Broiled Black Cod edamame puree
A pretty intense tasting took place that afternoon
Coffee Crusted Pecorino Romano clementine gratin
White Chocolate Ganache greek yogurt, carrot, yuzu
Pain Perdu
tangerine, lychee, marcona almond
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And that Blanc de Blancs from Henry Of Pelham really was Killer!
