Its hard to say anything that hasn’t been said about Beaujolais at this point. There is a reason that just about every Sommelier in the world can’t quit putting it on their wine lists and writing love letters about the region. We are long past the pigeonholed, carbonically fermented reputation of Beaujolais Nouveau, and generally, buying Beaujolais wines is an extremely reliable purchase (with the exception of that sordid wine Jamie reviewed a few weeks back).
I tasted some absolutely wicked wines at a recent Beaujolais tasting event, following a panel (pictured above) led by Christopher Waters (The Globe & Mail), Anne Martin (Maple Leaf Sports & Entertainment), Joshua Corea (Archive 909), and Bernard Stramwasser (Le Sommelier).
One thing was abundantly clear in the panel, and it’s just how passionate everyone is about Beaujolais (and how desperately I needed a haircut, also pictured above in the red flannel).
There was a lot to pick from, but I painstakingly narrowed it down to my top 5 (I lied, I couldn’t cut any of these so it’s actually a top 6).
Hell of a lineup. (All photos in this article are credited to Ariel Andres)
I had the pleasure to be introduced to Beaujolais Blanc in Beaujolais proper, at the highest point of Fleurie, Domaine De La Madone. Chardonnay is the most commonly planted (though I tasted some very tasty Viognier there which cannot even be classified as Beaujolais). I find Beaujolais Blanc often to carry this lush, juicy acidity I often find in coastal wines, like Chardonnay decided to dress up as Albarino for halloween. Generally the value is very good, and I can’t resist snatching them up when I see them.
Domaine de Boischampt Beaujolais Jullie Blanc 2023
Floral, with the classic apples and citrus bouquet, but this wine is all about the palate. Silky texture, uber-juicy acids, this is tasty and versatile.
Represented by Ranger Wine in Ontario.
Vignerons des Pierres Dorees La Rose Blanche 2022
Almost Sake-like, cantaloupe, spun sugar, white sweet flowers. Quite unlike Chardonnay’s typical character. Rather full body as well, with a savoury, umami element in to the palate. Very curious.
Out of 40+ wines, two from Côte-de-Brouilly really stood out. Planted on the slopes of the ancient remains of a volcano, Mont Brouilly, the Gamay from this area just seems to suit my palate perfectly. There’s a real balance between the signature earthiness of Brouilly, and Gamays famous floral and fruit driven character. Harsh, post-volcanic Diorite (or “blue stone”) soils really push the vines to struggle, resulting in super concentrated, complex wines. I’ve always been a diehard for Fleurie and Morgon, but these wines have me doubting my allegiances.
Also, on the Olivier Pézenneau label, I just noticed in the closeup picture, it seems as if the winery used white-out correction tape, presumably on an old or misprinted label with a different vintage on it, and then handwrote in the “23” for the vintage. I try to stay unbiased, but I truly love this. I very, VERY vividly remember having to correct HUNDREDS of cases of wine once with a sharpie because they were printed with the wrong vintage on the case sticker. Truly a labour of love.
Domaine Guillaume Duvernay Côte-de-Brouilly “Chardignon” 2023
Quite compelling, with rooibos tea, plum, beetroot, and fine but ample tannins. I would drink this in its youth, as it has a certain balance I really enjoy now.
Côte de Brouilly Olivier Pézenneau Vigneron 2023
Arguably the most complete wine of the tasting in my eyes. Powerful and ripe (but not overripe), sweet earth, black cherry and waxy red cranberry, dried flowers and thyme. Lush texture, good acid, and just enough tannin to last this bottle 5-10 years in the cellar (which I certainly recommend giving it). The full package, very appealing.
Domaine du Moulin Berger, Saint-Amour “La Gagère” 2023
A true envoy to the vision of Saint-Armour. Roses, velvet tannins, spices and vanilla, teasingly sweet, ripe red fruit. I’m not the romantic type, but this bottle stirs something in my cold dead heart.
Sandrine Henriot Lachat Regnie 2022
Reminded me instantly of great Lambic beers such as Cantillion, lactic, funky, and unique in this lineup. Certaintly some volatile acidity here, but it serves to add electricity to the fruit rather than overpower it. Big aromas of pomegranate and hibiscus. Tannins are angular but not unbalanced, and the acids are mouthwatering with real mineral tension. Would be interested to see how it ages.
Truly the most unfortunate thing is that 5 out of the 6 are unrepresented in Ontario, so fingers crossed that some of these excellent bottles get picked up. Expect me to be screaming about it on my Instagram if they do.
In conclusion, just go drink Beaujolais. These are some of the best valued, most compelling, and most pleasurable wines on the planet. Beaujolais not only holds its own stylistic identity, but it’s the winemakers of Beaujolais that are truly iconic. Over the past few decades, Beaujolais has become a crucible of alternative winemaking, pushing the limits of their terroir and craft. I can’t think of many other regions with so many “cult” producers (Dutraive, Breton, Foillard, it goes on). I detest that Beaujolais seems to sometimes live in the shadow of comparison, either to other grape varieties, regions, or even its own past.
These wines are damn good, on their own terms, and you should drink them.
(All wines are rated out of a possible five apples)
