Nicholas Pearce presents the organic, biodynamic Alsatian wines of Domaine Muré…
12 GENERATIONS OF THE MURÉ FAMILY :
EXCELLENCE HANDED DOWN THROUGH THE GENERATIONS
When Michel Muré settled in Rouffach and planted his vineyard in the 17th century, he surely had little conception of the beautiful adventure that he was setting in motion for his descendants.
In 1935, Alfred Muré extended the property with the addition of the 12-hectare (25-acre) wholly owned Clos Saint Landelin, foreseeing already its potential for exceptional quality. He replanted the terraces, ideally situated with their sunny exposure and shelter from the rain.
Nowadays it is Alfred’s grandson René, together with his children Véronique and Thomas, the 11th and 12th generations of the family, who are responsible for running this exceptional, wholly-owned vineyard and its neighbouring terroirs, using biodynamic methods.
Muré wines are fine and rich with beautifully mineral acidities. This is achieved in the vineyard where Alsace’s naturally long ripening season is enhanced by Muré’s exceptional south-facing slopes. These are delightful and exciting wines, abundant in flavour, opulence and lacy acidity.
All wines are Certified Organic and Biodynamic
Available Now:
90pts Vinous
Very pale, crystal-clear straw-green. Delicate aromas and flavors of quince, green apple and minerals. Finishes long and clean with refined perfume. The name Originel refers to “in the beginning” because in the 1960s and 1970s, Sylvaner was the dominant grape variety in the valley (the Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru, for example, was almost entirely planted to Sylvaner and Gewürz). Lovely, above-average aperitif wine here; or try it with shellfish and asparagus dishes.
93pts Wine Enthusiast
Pure, almost heady notes of ripe Williams pear jump from the glass. The palate of this wine brings more pear fruit, laced with lemony freshness and a gentle residual sweetness that rounds and mellows the purity. It’s the creamy texture, though, that steals the show.
Private Order:
Crémant Brut NV $26.95 12x750mL
90pts Wine Enthusiast
Bright fresh notes of greengage and lemon play on the nose. The palate has the same zippy fruit flavors which are ripe but remain resolutely fresh. The mousse is frothy and lively, accentuating the lemony brightness even more against a more mellow autolytic background. A wonderfully balanced dry fresh apéritif.
Crémant Prestige Brut NV $29.95 12x750mL
92pts Wine Enthusiast
There is a savory touch of salt and herb amidst the fruity mirabelle plum notes on the nose. The palate shows a lovely background of autolytic richness, akin to sponge and rye bread and also has a piquant salty accent that entices all the way to the lemony bright finish. The mousse is fine and elegant, the finish is long and dry.
Riesling Calcaires Jaunes 2016 $26.95 12x750mL
93pts Wine Enthusiast
The fresh nose almost has a hint of salted lemon. On the palate both lemon and tart, red apple take over but the lemon streak of bright freshness dominates for now, creating drive. The concentrated body is bone dry and comes to a mouthwatering, superclean and long finish.
Gewürztraminer Orchidées Sauvages 2017 $24.95 12x750mL
92pts Wine Enthusiast
Intense red-apple notes are interspersed with vivid, aromatic touches of orange zest on the nose of this wine. The palate reinforces this apple and citrus juiciness, adding a pithy, phenolic edge that gives texture and is mouthwatering, with energy and warmth at the core. This wine has lovely balance, drive and an off-dry finish.
Pinot Noir Argiles Rouges 2016 $36.95 12x750mL
90pts Wine Enthusiast
The nose is very shy and wants to give little away. The palate slowly opens into a taut, elegant and fresh body adorned with flavors of cranberry and red cherry. All is toned down but comes with disarming purity and freshness, resulting in honesty and utter charm.
Riesling Côte de Rouffach Single Vineyard 2016 $31.95 12x750mL
91pts Wine Enthusiast
Stone, smoke and baked apricot on the nose of this wine promise excitement. The slender palate enhances these notions with a textural backdrop and ripe stone-fruit core that are focused by ripe citrus. This wine is light, concentrated and juicy all the way to the dry finish.
Riesling Clos St. Landelin Single Vineyard, Grand Cru & Monopole 2016 $59.95 6x750mL
97pts Wine Enthusiast – Cellar Selection
Lime, lemon and bergamot zest tantalize on the nose with their shimmering nuances of green and yellow freshness. The palate adds a textured backdrop that has something of citrus pith, providing a layer against which this vivid zestiness can play out. There is substance and depth and wonderful purity. The finish is dry and those flashes of aromatic citrus peel continue throughout. Wonderful. Drink now through 2035.
Pinot Gris Clos St. Landelin Single Vineyard, Grand Cru & Monopole 2015 $52.95 6x750mL
93pts Wine Enthusiast
A wonderfully aromatic nose of blossom and Conference pear is very appetizing. The palate comes in with pear-fruited generosity and an almost oily mouthfeel that speaks of the power of this concentrated wine. There is a pleasant edge of pithy bitterness that acts as a counterpoint to the inherent richness and ripeness of the fruit alongside fresh acidity. This is balanced and rounded and just off dry with a lovely, fresh structure that echoes long. There is great aging potential here. Drink 2017–2030.
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