John Maxwell is pouring me a snifter of very old, very rare Speyside single malt, while I leaf through a book of bovine pornography called Beautiful Cows. Well, pornography, might not be the right word exactly (although the cows pictured in it do not wear any clothes), at any rate the book certainly appreciates the ruminant form, as does Mr. Maxwell. We are meeting in anticipation of Allen’s Steak Festival, now running until the 23rd of February (or until they run out of the specially selected sides of beef on offer).
Maxwell started the festival to combat what he calls, “the tyranny of USDA Prime beef” over the imaginations of Toronto diners. The concept is simple enough: Maxwell buys entire sides of beef from 15 Ontario suppliers and steaks are cut to order from whatever breed and feeding regime the customer likes. Or is that 14? Allen’s will be serving steaks made from ‘Roman’, one of his own grass fed Dexter cattle (pictured above) that he raises on his farm near Flamborough.
Beyond the promise of a good meal (washed down with a VQA rarity from the late 90s or early 00s pulled from Allen’s extensive cellar), the steak festival is unqiue way to try and taste the difference that breed and animal husbandry can make on the taste of beef. Maxwell admits he puts the festival on in part to satisfy his own curiosity on how different breeds raised in different ways might affect taste and texture, and recommends attending in larger parties, so each diner might sample from the plates of his companions. Alternatively, one might follow Maxwell’s lead and eat a different steak each and every night at Allen’s until the 24th. The menu in all its producer listing and descriptive glory is reproduced for GFR reader below…
ALLEN’S STEAK FESTIVAL MENU, FEBRUARY 5-23, 2013
APPETIZERS
OYSTERS BAKED IN SPINACH JACKETS WITH BACON-COGNAC BUTTER $14.95
Cotuit oysters supplied by Rodney’s Oyster House
GRILLED COLOSSAL CHILI-RUBBED SHRIMP COCKTAIL WITH AVOCADO-CORN SALSA $17.95
LUMP CRABMEAT SALAD WITH MANGO AND MINT $17.95
PINGUE NIAGARA PROSCIUTTO WITH BOCCONCINI AND BASIL-INFUSED EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL $15.95
SMOKED SCOTTISH SALMON WITH CAPERS, RED ONION AND LEMON $14.95
OUR OWN CHICKEN LIVER AND GLENFIDDICH WHISKEY PATÉ WITH SODA BREAD TOASTS $10.50
FETTUCCINE WITH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, LEMON ZEST AND BASIL $13.50
RICHARD BROOKS HEREFORD BEEF CARPACCIO, WITH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, LEMON JUICE AND ARUGULA $14.95
JOHN W. MAXWELL DEXTER BEEF CARPACCIO, WITH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, LEMON JUICE AND ARUGULA $16.95
POTATOES
BAKED WITH SOUR CREAM AND CHIVES $7.25
THICK-CUT, SKIN-ON YUKON GOLD FRENCH FRIES $7.25
MATCHSTICK YUKON GOLD FRENCH FRIES $7.25
ROASTED GARLIC, AGED WHITE CHEDDAR AND CHIPOTLE MASH $7.95
PAN-FRIED SMASHED WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO $7.95
GRIDDLED POTATO CAKES WITH PINGUE PANCETTA $7.95
VEGETABLES AND SALADS
ASPARAGUS STEAMED WITH LEMON BUTTER OR GRILLED WITH BALSAMIC GLAZE $8.95
RAPINI SAUTEED WITH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC $8.25
CREAMED SPINACH WITH BUTTERY CRUMBS $8.50
ROASTED ANCHO CHILI ONION RINGS $7.95
GRILLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH WORCESTERSHIRE GLAZE $8.50
ROASTED TOMATOES WITH STILTON $8.95
FENNEL SLAW WITH LEMON AND DILL $7.95
BLOODY MARY SALAD $8.95
CAESAR SALAD WITH SHAVED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO $11.95
SAUCES
BÉARNAISE $3.95 WILD MUSHROOM, THYME AND MERLOT $3.95
SHALLOT AND PORT $3.95 HORSERADISH CREAM $3.95
HOUSE-MADE LAGER-MOLASSES STEAK SAUCE $3.75 ROQUEFORT-CHIVE SAUCE $4.50
THE STEAKS
GUIDELINES: MOST BONE-LESS STEAKS ARE CUT-TO-ORDER AND THEREFORE MAY BE AS LARGE AS YOU LIKE. MINIMUM AND ADDITIONAL OUNCE PRICES ARE POSTED. THAT WHICH YOU DO NOT FINISH WILL BE CAREFULLY PACKED FOR HOME.
STEAK TARTARE – GROUND-TO-ORDER SIRLOIN, SERVED WITH EGG YOLK, CAPERS, PARSLEY, RED ONION AND ANCHOVY.
JOHN VANDENBERG, GREENSVILLE, ONTARIO; BELGIAN BLUE; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY,
HAY SILAGE, CORN SILAGE; AGED 35 DAYS. Appetizer $15.95 Main Course $27.00
PATRICK McCARTHY, KOBE CLASSIC BEEF, CAMROSE, ALBERTA; WAGYU-ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, BARLEY, WHEAT, CORN, OATS; AGED 21 DAYS. Appetizer $20.00 Main Course $36.00
STRIPLOIN STEAK – ALL ARE CUT TO ORDER.
BERETTA ORGANIC FARMS, KING CITY, ONTARIO; PIEDMONTESE-ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC- FREE;
FEED GRASS, OATS, RYE, BARLEY, CORN; AGED 35 DAYS. $44.00 per 10 ounce; $4.25 each additional ounce.
RICHARD BROOKS, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 35 DAYS. $40.00 per 10 ounce; $3.75 each additional ounce.
JAMES DYMENT, DUNDAS, ONTARIO; ANGUS, HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 35 DAYS. $40.00 per 10 ounce; $3.75 each additional ounce.
EXCEL PACKERS, SCHUYLER, NEBRASKA; USDA PRIME; HEREFORD; FEED HAY, CORN; AGED 42 DAYS.
$46.00 per 10 ounce; $4.50 each additional ounce.
JOHN W. MAXWELL, WYATT FARM ORGANICS, FLAMBOROUGH CENTRE, ONTARIO; DEXTER; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, AGED 28 DAYS. $42.00 per 8 ounce; $4.50 each additional ounce.
NORTHFORK BISON RANCH, STE. RÉMI, QUEBEC; AMERICAN BISON; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY;
AGED 21 DAYS. $45.00 per 8 ounce; $4.95 each additional ounce.
LARRY POWELL, FISHERVILLE, ONTARIO; ANGUS-HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 46 DAYS. $42.00 per 10 ounce; $3.95 each additional ounce.
HENRY TRAYNOR, BLACKSTOCK, ONTARIO; LIMOUSIN; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY,
ALFALFA, BARLEY; AGED 32 DAYS. $42.00 per 10 ounce, $3.95 each additional ounce.
JOHN VANDENBERG, GREENSVILLE, ONTARIO; BELGIAN BLUE; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, HAY SILAGE, CORN SILAGE; AGED 35 DAYS. $40.00 per 10 ounce, $3.75 each additional ounce.
REG WOODWORTH, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HIGHLAND; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY;
AGED 28 DAYS. $40.00 per 8 ounce, $4.25 each additional ounce.
BONE-IN STRIPLOIN STEAK – 16 OUNCE
WAYNE FREY, MILLBANK, ONTARIO; ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN, CORN SILAGE;
AGED 28 DAYS. $42.00
TENDERLOIN STEAK – ALL ARE CUT TO ORDER.
ATLANTIC MEAT PACKERS, SUMMERSIDE, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND; ANGUS; HORMONE-FREE; FEED GRASS,
HAY, BARLEY, SOYBEANS, POTATOES; AGED 28 days. $40.00 per 8 ounce; $4.25 each additional ounce.
BERETTA ORGANIC FARMS, KING CITY, ONTARIO; PIEDMONTESE-ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC- FREE;
FEED GRASS, OATS, RYE, BARLEY, CORN; AGED 35 DAYS. $44.00 per 8 ounce; $4.75 each additional ounce.
JOHN W. MAXWELL, WYATT FARM ORGANICS, FLAMBOROUGH CENTRE, ONTARIO; DEXTER; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY; AGED 35 DAYS. $42.00 per 6 ounce; $4.75 each additional ounce.
NORTHFORK BISON RANCH, STE. RÉMI, QUEBEC; AMERICAN BISON; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY; AGED 21 DAYS. $46.00 per 6 ounce; $5.15 each additional ounce.
LARRY POWELL, FISHERVILLE, ONTARIO; ANGUS-HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN; AGED 46 DAYS. $42.00 per 8 ounce; $4.35 each additional ounce.
SCOTCH MOUNTAIN MEATS, MEAFORD, ONTARIO; ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, BARLEY, ALFALFA, FIELD PEAS, SOYBEANS; AGED 32 DAYS. $40.00 per 8 ounce, $4.25 each additional ounce.
HENRY TRAYNOR, BLACKSTOCK, ONTARIO; LIMOUSIN; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY,
ALFALFA, BARLEY; AGED 32 DAYS. $42.00 per 8 ounce, $4.35 each additional ounce.
JOHN VANDENBERG, GREENSVILLE, ONTARIO; BELGIAN BLUE; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY,
HAY SILAGE, CORN SILAGE; AGED 35 DAYS. $40.00 per 8 ounce, $4.25 each additional ounce.
REG WOODWORTH, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HIGHLAND; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY;
AGED 28 DAYS. $40.00 per 6 ounce; $4.75 each additional ounce.
BONE-IN TENDERLOIN STEAK -14 OUNCE
RICHARD BROOKS, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 35 DAYS. $46.00
RIB-EYE STEAK – ALL ARE CUT TO ORDER.
JAMES DYMENT, DUNDAS, ONTARIO; ANGUS, HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 35 DAYS. $42.00 per 12 ounce; $3.50 each additional ounce.
EXCEL PACKERS, SCHUYLER, NEBRASKA; USDA PRIME; HEREFORD; FEED HAY, CORN; AGED 42 DAYS.
$48.00 per 12 ounce; $3.95 each additional ounce.
NORTHFORK BISON RANCH, STE. RÉMI, QUEBEC; AMERICAN BISON; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY; AGED 21 DAYS. $44.00 per 10 ounce; $4.25 each additional ounce.
LARRY POWELL, FISHERVILLE, ONTARIO; ANGUS-HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN; AGED 46 DAYS. $42.00 per 12 ounce; $3.50 each additional ounce.
REG WOODWORTH, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HIGHLAND; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY;
AGED 28 DAYS. $42.00 per 10 ounce; $3.95 each additional ounce.
JOHN VANDENBERG, GREENSVILLE, ONTARIO; BELGIAN BLUE; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY,
HAY SILAGE, CORN SILAGE; AGED 35 DAYS. $42.00 per 12 ounce, $3.50 each additional ounce.
BONE-IN RIB STEAK
BERETTA ORGANIC FARMS, KING CITY, ONTARIO; ANGUS-PIEMONTESE; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, OATS, RYE, BARLEY, CORN; AGED 35 DAYS. $48.00 per 18 ounce.
RICHARD BROOKS, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 35 DAYS. $42.00 per 18 ounce.
JOHN W. MAXWELL, WYATT FARM ORGANICS, FLAMBOROUGH CENTRE, ONTARIO; DEXTER; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, AGED 28 DAYS. $44.00 per 14 ounce.
SCOTCH MOUNTAIN MEATS, MEAFORD, ONTARIO; ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, BARLEY, ALFALFA, FIELD PEAS, SOYBEANS; AGED 32 DAYS. $42.00 per 18 ounce.
HENRY TRAYNOR, BLACKSTOCK, ONTARIO; LIMOUSIN; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY,
ALFALFA, BARLEY; AGED 32 DAYS. $44.00 per 18 ounce.
REG WOODWORTH, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HIGHLAND; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY;
AGED 28 DAYS. $42.00 per 14 ounce.
PORTERHOUSE STEAK – 24 OUNCE
WAYNE FREY, MILLBANK, ONTARIO; ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN, CORN SILAGE;
AGED 28 DAYS. $50.00
SIRLOIN STEAK
RICHARD BROOKS, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN;
AGED 35 DAYS. $34.00 per 10 ounce.
JOHN W. MAXWELL, WYATT FARM ORGANICS, FLAMBOROUGH CENTRE, ONTARIO; DEXTER; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, AGED 28 DAYS. $36.00 per 8 ounce.
REG WOODWORTH, LYNDEN, ONTARIO; HIGHLAND; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED GRASS, HAY;
AGED 28 DAYS. $34.00 per 8 ounce.
PRIME RIB – FRIDAY AND SATURDAY ONLY. DOUBLE CUT, BONE-IN, 18-20 OUNCE
LARRY POWELL, FISHERVILLE, ONTARIO; ANGUS-HEREFORD; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, CORN; AGED 46 DAYS. $48.00
“KOBE KORNER” – THE WORLD-FAMOUS “WAGYU” BEEF
Please note: Due to its extremely high fat content (20-25% as opposed to U.S. or Canadian Prime at 4-6%), Wagyu beef is best treated like Foie Gras and seared in a very hot pan and served rare. It is not grilled.
STRIPLOIN STEAK – CUT TO ORDER.
PATRICK McCARTHY, KOBE CLASSIC BEEF, CAMROSE, ALBERTA; WAGYU-ANGUS; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE;
FEED GRASS, HAY, BARLEY, WHEAT, CORN, OATS; AGED 32 DAYS. $60.00 per 6 ounce; $9.25 each additional ounce.
TENDERLOIN STEAK – CUT TO ORDER
OAKLEIGH RANCH, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA; WAGYU; HORMONE AND ANTIBIOTIC-FREE; FEED BARLEY, WHEAT, CORN,
ALFALFA; AGED 21 DAYS. $85.00 per 5 ounce; $15.00 each additional ounce.
FRESH FISH STEAKS – 8 OUNCE, With Béarnaise or Lime-Orange Vinaigrette
AHI TUNA – JAPAN $38.00
SWORDFISH – FLORIDA $34.00
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