2022 Staete Landt “Duchess” Wild Barrel Ferment Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (Alcohol 13%, Residual Sugar 3 g/l) LCBO Vintages $27.80 (750ml glass bottle)

Having spoken with winemaker Ruud Maasdam about this wine some time ago, I was most excited to finally get my hands on a bottle, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. This is a thoroughly different angle on New Zealand Sauvignon, and while I don’t think it is for everyone, I feel it’s one of the most exciting examples I have tasted in quite some time.

Fermented in older oak barriques and using, for the most part, wild yeasts for spontaneous fermentation, this is bordering upon feral wine, but that’s not saying that it follows that much-trodden natural path of “let’s see how many faults we can fit into one bottling.” Maasdam is one hell of a judicious winemaker with a meticulous attention to detail, and this speaks to his wonderfully measured approach to crafting wine.

The labyrinthine bouquet may confuse the uninitiated at first, but once one understands Maasdam’s intentions, everything falls into place; the subsequent interlocking layers of aromatics are a true delight for the olfactory. Expect to find seductive scents of lush tropical fruits (mango, passion fruit), citrus (lemon/lime), and ripe gooseberry wrapped in an intriguing floral, smokey, spicey, nutty, biscuity veil. It’s all really rather lovely and quite an accomplishment.

The palate follows suit, with added orchard fruits (peach/pear) and an extremely pleasant weight and texture in the mouth, the barrel ferment and partial malolactic adding a subtle creaminess to the mouthfeel. The savoury extended finish continues the fruit/mineral route.

Allow this to warm up a little in the glass, and the bouquet really shows at its very best.

I had this with some simply prepared, pan-fried lake trout, and it was simply divine. The bottle vanished in a scarily fast manner… and I was the only one drinking.

This is such a well-rounded, well-crafted wine that it’s impossible not to reach for another glass.


(Four and a half out of a possible five apples)

 

 

Staete Landt are represented in Ontario by Lifford Cellars.

Lifford Cellars are a Good Food Fighter.

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