If one had to pick the winemaker that has had the greatest impact on not only Douro wines, but Portuguese wines in general, it would be Dirk Niepoort. Easily one of the world’s top winemakers, Dirk’s insight extends beyond soils, grapes and blends, and into humans, predicting and driving the wines that today’s wine lovers, of all ages and backgrounds, are interested in drinking.
While upholding his family’s history in Port wine, dating back to 1842, this fifth generation Niepoort has led the path for future generations to follow in both dry and Port wines. Independent, low-interventionist winemaking (biodynamic practices since 2012), earlier picking times, and clever marketing has created fresh wines both inside and outside of the bottle. The soft-spoken Dirk deftly combines tradition with innovation, equally using granite lagares and ancient autochthonous grapes alongside sharp social media, alliances with artists, and collaborations with other winemakers around the world (including our own Suertes del Marqués from Tenerife), through his Niepoort Projectos projects, and the natural, smashable, NAT’Cool! wines. He is joined in the winery by sons Daniel and Marco, continuing on the family tradition.
We are proud to have 4 new Niepoort releases at the LCBO this season, joining some of the exceptional vintage and tawny ports released previously.
Niepoort Lagar de Baixo Red 2021
This organically and biodynamically farmed Baga comes from Niepoort’s Quinta do Baixo estate in Bairrada, and 40-50 year old vines in calcareous clays. The grapes were partially foot-trodden in granite lagares, and partially fermented in stainless, before finishing fermentation and resting 19 months in large oak barrels. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Wild cherry, crunchy pomegranate, and dried thyme is woven with forest floor and moss, streaming across the slight (12% palate), easily lifted with a kiss of VA and textured with a limestone buzz. Tannins are slight and sticky, hugging to a fading saline finish.
Appellation : DOC Bairrada
Country : Portugal
Grape(s) : Baga
Price : $31.45
LCBO : 39837
Niepoort 20 Year Old Tawny Port
From the schistous vineyards of Douro’s Vinha da Pisca, Vale do Pinhão, and Ferrão, this blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Amarela, Sousão, Tinta Roriz comes from vines upwards of 60 years, and wines averaging 20 years. Post-ferment, it aged in 550L casks until bottling. 20 Years is when Tawny really truly becomes interesting, and with the drier, savoury Niepoort style, this is a stellar example of what the category can achieve. Roasted almonds and walnuts are woven with caramelized citrus, sweet tobacco, stretching long across the sultry palate, studded with flake salts, and lingering long into a sweet saline wake. Stunner.
Region : Douro Valley
Country : Portugal
Grape(s) : Blend
Price : $97.65
LCBO : 34676
Niepoort White Port
Niepoort White Port is a blend of Malvasia, Viosinho and Gouveio, from Douro’s Covelinhas and Pombal vineyards and vines over 60 years. The fermentation is stopped by the addition of pure grape brandy, leaving ample residual sugar (110 g/L). After spending one year in large wood vats the wine is transferred to 550L casks where it rests for at least 3 years before bottling. Pouring a golden hue, this rolls golden raisins, butterscotch, caramelized walnuts along the palate, with a dusting of white pepper and anise lingering on the finish, and easy acidity countering the ample sugar. Try over ice.
Region : Douro Valley
Country : Portugal
Grape(s) : Blend
Price : $19.95
LCBO : 31767
Niepoort Dry White Port
This Dry White Port is a blend of Côdega, Rabigato, Viosinho, Arinto and Gouveio from Douro’s Covelinhas and Pombal vineyards, and vines upward of 30 years. After fermentation in open lagares, this aged in small old oak casks for 3.5 years before release. It is on the drier side of White Ports, with 51 g/L RS. Caramelized orange, white honey, candied lime and lemon peel, fragrant honeysuckle, dried apricot, and anise roll through this moderately sweet wine, finishing with a wild orange twist. Super smart, thankfully dryish, and calling out for a partnering with tonic.
Region : Douro Valley
Country : Portugal
Grape(s) : Blend
Price : $19.95
LCBO : 31768
Most of our producers are small, independently owned and operated businesses, like ours. You can view our complete portfolio here. Thank you for letting us share these producers and wines with you.
Cheers,
Le Sommelier
416.603.7026
bernard@lesommelier.com
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