NV Faustino Cava “Brut Reserva”, Rioja, Spain (Alcohol 11.5%, Residual Sugar 6 g/l) LCBO Vintages $16.95 (750ml glass bottle)
It’s always fortuitous to find drinkable bubbly at a reasonable price, and this modest Cava from the historied Rioja producer Bodega Faustino fits the bill rather nicely.
On the nose, it has much of what one looks for in such a wine, with aromatics of citrus, on-the-cusp-of-browning-apple, honeycomb, and a fairly prominent yeasty, leesy character of toasted brioche that I, personally, find most appealing. This Macabeo (Viura) and Chardonnay blend sees a minimum of 18 months ageing sur latte (read: lying sideways on the lees during and after the secondary fermentation in bottle), hence the dominant autolytic profile.
On the palate, the bubbles don’t have quite the finesse of finer sparkling wines, but served well chilled, the effervescence isn’t too aggressive. There’s a slightly oxidative taste in the mouth, but it’s kept in line by some reasonably assertive and lemon-zesty acidity.
The finish is moderate and reserved, but the appeal is certainly there and makes one go for that next glass.
It is without a shadow of a doubt one of the most put-together sparkling wines available at this price point.
(Three and a half out of a possible five apples)
