2021 Meerlust “Rubicon” Stellenbosch, South Africa (Alcohol 14%, Residual Sugar 3 g/l) LCBO Vintages $63.95 (750ml bottle)

There’s something to be said for the consistency of Meerlust’s Rubicon bottling over the decades. While there’s undoubtedly some vintage variation, there is an unmistakable Rubicon character that shines through year after year, and that’s probably why this wine has as many fans as it does around the globe. Personally, I have always found this wine a real delight, as despite its noble pedigree, there’s still something decidedly rustic at play here.

The usually Cab-heavy Rubicon is a little more balanced in this vintage, with a larger proportion of Merlot from older vineyards making an appearance. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from four distinctly different terroirs, fermented and aged for 8 months in 300l barrels and oak foudres.

The nose is extremely complex and, as always with Rubicon, does show a fair amount of Old World style restraint. There’s a lovely black plum fruit character, with fair amount of warm vanilla spice from the barrels. One will also find aromas of cassis, mocha, bramble, and a mysterious touch of herbal earthiness that always marks this bottling for me.

In the mouth, it’s medium-full bodied, although somewhat skewed to the medium side of the spectrum. The tannins, fruit, and acid are still somewhat disparate and need some years in bottle to integrate. The dark, plummy fruit is more reserved than one usually expects from South African blends, but therein lies Rubicon’s charm. There’s a hell of a lot of structure here, and as such would be a real challenge to enjoy without some serious steak to accompany. There’s a terrific mineral thread running throughout which extends into the long finish.

This is undeniably a wine built for the long haul and could easily last a couple of decades. In it’s infancy right now, it’s a little closed, and the tannins could do with some smoothing out before it shows its true potential. If you had to drink it right now, I’d recommend quite a lengthy decant before consumption.


(Four and a half out of a possible five apples)

 

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