The administrative region of Macedonia is an area of great diversity both in terms of landscape and weather conditions. In vineyards closer to the sea, the summer heat is mitigated by light sea breezes. Inland areas are characterized by a more continental influence. For example, PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) enjoys a cool climate with strong continental influences and is among the coolest wine-growing regions in Greece.
Macedonia is the land of the Xinomavro grape, since three out of the four PDO appellations dedicated to this noble grape variety are located here. Macedonia is described as both a bastion of tradition and a place of innovation. From the air-dried traditional sweet wines of PGI Siatista (ΠΓΕ Σιάστισα) to areas with no former wine-making tradition, such as Drama or Kavala, that have been transformed into innovative “hubs” for the production of fine wines, this statement has been proven true in many different ways.
Vineyards in Epanomi. Pic courtesy of Wines of Greece.
When discussing wine production in Macedonia, one should start with the regions dedicated to Xinomavro. Xinomavro is the most representative grape of Macedonia. It is relatively difficult to cultivate. However, it is site-sensitive and highlights the different terroirs. The wines tend to be medium coloured, with high acidity, firm tannins, tight structure and a personality oozing pure elegance. The bottle aging potential is long and nothing less than remarkable.
PDO Naoussa (ΠΟΠ Νάουσα) is arguably a top Xinomavro appellation. The wines are powerful with depth, breathtaking complexity and possibly one of the longest ageing potentials among Greek wines. The soils are extremely varied, even within the same vineyard. PDO Naoussa (ΠΟΠ Νάουσα) is characterized by diversity in terrains, altitudes, aspects and soils on the hilly slopes of Mt. Vermio. Here the “notion” of cru has been established in the mindset of Naoussa producers for several decades; however, there is no official classification so far. The increasingly common single-vineyard bottlings are an attempt to identify the special characteristics of each different terroir.
Vineyards in Naoussa. Pic courtesy of Wines of Greece.
PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο), in Florina, is the second appellation of northern Greece that is totally dedicated to Xinomavro. The cool climate is moderated by the influence of two adjacent lakes and the soils are sandy over a bed of limestone. The region boasts a number of old, ungrafted vines due to the soil’s sandy composition. PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) is packed with lovely fruit purity and elegance. When compared to Naoussa, Amyndeon has a brighter fruit character, ethereal floral notes and a leaner palate. Moreover, PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) is the only appellation in Greece where rosé wines are extremely important and one of the few that produces significant quantities of sparkling wines. Amyndeon’s climate is ideal for the production of elegant and vibrant white and red wines made from grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Malagousia, Roditis, Assyrtiko, Syrah, and so on These are sold under the geographical indications PGI Florina or PGI Macedonia.
PDO Goumenissa (ΠΟΠ Γουμένισσα), in Kilkis, is the third Xinomavro territory. Here, Xinomavro is blended with the local Negoska variety in order to produce wines with depth and fruit, yet less austere or powerful than PDO Naoussa (ΠΟΠ Νάουσα). Varietal wines from Negoska, as well as a number of indigenous grapes like Roditis, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Limnio and others are also grown in the region and sold under the PGI Slopes of Paiko (ΠΓΕ Πλαγιές Πάικου). Other notable areas, however not of appellation status, are PGI Velvento (ΠΓΕ Βελβεντό) on the shores of lake Polyfytos and PGI Siatista (ΠΓΕ Σιάτιστα), a high-altitude up-coming terroir for Xinomavro.
Vineyards & Lake Vegoritida. Pic courtesy of Wines of Greece.
Halkidiki is one of Greece’s most distinguished landscapes: three finger-like peninsulas extending into the Aegean Sea. The most important viticulture areas are PDO Slopes of Meliton (ΠΟΠ Πλαγιές Μελίτωνα), PGI Sithonia (ΠΓΕ Σιθωνία) and PGI Mount Athos (ΠΓΕ Άγιο Όρος). Halkidiki is planted with Athiri, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Limnio, Xinomavro, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and so on. The neighbouring prefecture of Thessaloniki boasts a number of outstanding wine-growing regions, such as the PGI Epanomi (ΠΓΕ Επανομή), were Malagousia as well as other Greek and international varieties are well-adapted. The seaside vineyards of Halkidiki and Thessaloniki are very much influenced by their proximity to the Thermaikos Gulf. A bit to the south, the region of Pieria is an upcoming area with increasing number of boutique wineries growing grapes such as Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Chardonnay, Xinomavro, Cabernet Sauvignon and others.
Kavala and Drama form the eastern part of Macedonia, separating the rest of the mainland from Thrace. In Kavala, PGI Pangeon (ΠΓΕ Παγγαίο) is a significant viticultural area providing high-quality fruit. Here, as well as in neighbouring PGI Drama (ΠΓΕ Δράμα), the vineyards are successfully planted with a number of Bordeaux grape varieties. However, during the last decade there has been a shift towards Greek grapes. Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Xinomavro, and Agiorgitiko bring a breath of fresh air into the two regions and are made in pure varietals or blends with international grapes. Undoubtedly, Macedonia is an inexhaustible source of great wines.
For more information, check out the Wines of Greece website or the New Wines of Greece YouTube channel.
