Turning Vision Into Wine
Wine can be thought of as many things: a passion, a collectible, an investment, an education, a celebration. For Leonardo and Luca Baccarelli, the father and son team behind the young but already notable Roccafiore, wine is first and foremost an agricultural product, one that must be made sustainably and in harmony with other plants and animals in a wholistic system that preserves as much as it produces.
Leonardo bought the property in Todi, Umbria, in 2000, and from the beginning the 90 hectares of land, which includes 15 hectares of vineyards, has been farmed organically and with a view to increasing the overall health of the region. 10 years later, an eco-conscious, state-of-the-art gravity-flow winery was completed and with Luca at the helm, Roccafiore has been gaining critical acclaim in Italy and around the world for its wines from native grapes Grechetto and Sangiovese.
Like wine, Roccafiore is also many things. In addition to being a winery producing excellent, minimal-intervention wines from meticulously tended vineyards, it is a shining example of conscientious farming: the land not under vine is a diverse mix of crops including olive groves, fields of legumes and cereals, orchards with hazelnut, cherry, orange, lemon, peach, apple and pomegranate trees and a medicinal and aromatic botanical garden, all planted with the intent of maintaining the natural wealth of this agricultural area. Roccafiore is also committed to sustainable agri-tourism, with a beautifully designed hotel and spa that reflects the estate’s environmental focus through the use of a photovoltaic system that provides energy-efficiency and saves about 90,000 kg of CO2 emissions per year. Furthermore, since 2016, Roccafiore has been involved in a large reforestation project to increase local biodiversity and fight climate change.
Sustainability also extends to their community, and in particular artists. Over the past two decades, a type of modern patronage has been created to showcase young, local artists, with every space inside and out at the estate now filled with a large collection of art. Roccafiore’s “green” soul shines through its approach to farming, to wine, to art and to community, and it forms the core of their commitment to live in harmony with their surroundings.
Roccafiore 2021 ‘Fiordaliso’ Grechetto, Umbria
Retail: $22.95 / btl
Roccafiore 2021 Rosato, Umbria
Retail: $23.95 / btl
Roccafiore 2019 Montefalco Rosso, Umbria
Retail: $34.95 / btl (6btl/cs)
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The Wines
Roccafiore 2021 ‘Fiordaliso’ Grechetto, Umbria
Made from 100% Grechetto di Todi, grapes are gently de-stemmed and pressed, the must naturally decants for 12 to 24 hours and a cool fermentation takes place with wild yeast in stainless steel tanks. The finished wine spends six months in stainless steel in contact with the fine lees, with no malolactic fermentation, as well as a three further months in bottle before release. Straw-yellow in the glass with light green shading and a lovely bouquet of white flowers, pink grapefruit and green apple. Dry, fresh and salty on the palate, with vibrant acidity and a lingering mineral finish.
Roccafiore 2021 Rosato, Umbria
A pale pink wine with coppery shades, made form 100% Sangiovese.The grapes are de-stemmed and pressed and macerated on the skins for only about 45 minutes. Wild yeast fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, where temperatures are strictly controlled. The wine ages six months in stainless steel in contact with the fine lees and a further three months in bottle before release. Fine and elegant aromas of red fruit and florals with delicate flavours of raspberry and pomegranate. Fresh and savoury, with a pleasant tension and an intriguing mineral note.
Roccafiore 2019 Montefalco Rosso, Umbria
A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 15% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Grapes are harvested in the last week of September and the first half of October and then separately de-stemmed and pressed. Maceration on the skins lasts about 10 days and the fermentation takes place with wild yeast in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, followed by racking and malolactic fermentation. The wine then ages for 18 months in large, neutral barrels of Slavonian oak. Brilliant and intense ruby red colour with aromatics of ripe plums, red berries and notes of sweet spice. Smooth and fresh on the palate, with soft and elegant tannins on the finish.
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About Roccafiore
Located near the medieval hilltop town of Todi (in the very middle of Italy – halfway between Florence and Rome, and smack-dab between both coasts), Roccafiore was founded in 2000 by Leonardo Baccarelli as an organic farm, restaurant & inn. In the rolling hills surrounding Todi, it’s an innovative project. The pioneering 15 hectare vineyard is planted to Grechetto di Todi, Trebbiano Spoletino, Sangiovese, Montepulciano & Sagrantino. But that’s not all; the 90 ha estate is also home to a drift (herd) of Cinta Sinese pigs (for salumi & prosciutto), as well as organic olives, grains and vegetables that supply the on-site restaurant. A solar installation supplies the electricity needs of the entire estate, including the winery and boutique hotel. Even the tractors run on biodiesel.
The gravity-flow winery, completed in 2010, boasts the latest technology and a luxury of space for the 90,000-bottle capacity — allowing production of the highest quality wines with the least manipulation. There is a very clear determination to achieve great results, and resources to support this goal. Roccafiore is a very young project, and already showing impressive results under the direction of Leonardo’s son, Luca. The vineyards and cellar were designed by Hartmann Donà, whose reputation was made in the Alto Adige, and he continues to oversee the winemaking. Green manure (vegan) fertilization in the vineyards, spontaneous fermentation in the cellar and their meticulous eco-conscious ethos make Roccafiore very special. This is a compelling range of wines, and we especially love the various expressions of Grechetto and Sangiovese. The wines are Certified Organic.
This young project has already been recognized with Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri. Most recently, Roccafiore was featured in the 2019 Slow Wine Guide, with a special shout-out to the “lip-smacking” Bianco ‘Fiordaliso’ 2017 Grechetto with the Everyday Wine Prize – awarded to conscientious bottles that also represent excellent value.
A visit to Roccafiore is highly recommended – for the wine, the very comfortable rooms, spa, and a very fine dining room – in the buccolic hills of Umbria.
