by Andy Shay
Last week I was traveling in Prince Edward County for Invest in Cheese, a venture formed by group of four Eastern Ontario counties promoting artianal cheese making in their region. I stopped at Fifth Town, whose shop is impeccably merchandised and always pleasure to be in, and was promptly asked if I would like to try their new ice cream. Of curse, I sais “yes” and I found out the product was brand new , just having been made of the day before. Well, I tried it and this is what I have to say: GET THEE TO FIFTH TOWN FOR THE MOST INCREDIBLE ICE CREAM YOU HAVE EVER TASTED!
The ambrosia is actually produced by Pascale’s All Natural Ice Cream in Ottawa. Fifth Town ships them fresh chèvre cheese and goats’ milk from which owner and maker Pascale Berthiaume creates a French custard which she then churns into ice cream. If Haagen Daz is premium – this is super premium – I mean like Berthillon ice cream on the Ile-Saint-Louis in Paris. Yes, it is $5 for a tiny scoop – but it is so rich and so delicious any more would ruin a good thing.
What is it like? There are no crystals, just thick smoothness – not gummy with guar gum and carignan – just smooth and thick. It is not light and fluffy , pumped with too much air… again, just smooth and thick. Are you getting the idea? Now add in the flavour of fresh cream and an herbaciousness from the local, naturally raised goats’ milk and a careful measure of sugar, ensuring there is not too much sweetness. Add again the tang of honey and the warmth of lavender and you have one incredible scoop of ice cream on your hands.
But what’s that yoou say? It’s made with goats’ milk? Yes, but this is premium goat milk, certified by the CFIA as some of the cleanest milk in the land. Turns out that strong “goaty” flavours are created by less clean milk – so all you get here is extra good ice cream with a bonus of complex flavour. It may have been a while since you had real ice cream (beware of those tubs labelled “Frozen Dessert” in the supermarket freezer), so it may be difficult to separate the extra flavour of real ice cream from the extra flavour of goat milk ice cream.
All I can tell you is that it is worth the trip and every penny.
Available in Honey Lavender, Vanilla or 70% chocolate and only at the Fifth Town store in Prince Edward County or at Pascale’s in Ottawa.
Should also be noted that Monforte and Ewenity have artisanal ice creams available this season – will dispatch Andy for more coverage, post haste!