By Jamie Drummond
2007 Bodegas Martin Codax “Cuatro Pasos” Mencia Bierzo Spain (LCBO VINTAGES 39313) $16.95
Hailing from the very fashionable Bierzo region in Northwest Spain, this wine shows extremely attractive and intense aromatics of blueberries and violets with nuances of star anise. There is also a delightful herbal character coming through. Aged in both American and French oak and sourced from 4 separate hillside vineyards. In the mouth one finds firm acidity and freshness alongside a good mineral complexity, which I put down to the 80+ year old vines planted in both flaky slate and composite clay soils. This wine shows tremendous value and it is certainly one of my favourite bottles for everyday drinking. I’d choose to pair this with carefully roasted (watch it doesn’t dry out!) or braised quail.
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… and he apologises for having kept this wine his little secret for so long.