by Zoltan Szabo
Messieurs Marchand et Tawse - Le Select, Toronto, November 2011
The newly launched Marchand-Tawse wines are elegant and classic, made from grapes coming from some of the best vineyards of the Cote d’Or. With a Canadian fingerprint all over them, they certainly bring high quality and Burgundian classicism. They are pure and balanced, some are drinking now, yet many possess a patience-worthy aging potential.
The Pascal Marchand and Moray Tawse duo is a match made in heaven, and by adding winemaker of the year, Paul Pender of the peninsula’s Tawse winery to the mix, you get an extraordinary team and some extraordinary wines, from both places, the Niagara Peninsula and Burgundy. Amen…!
Here are my notes from a November tasting I attended with the “other Szabo”, John and my friend from Montreal Bill Zacharkiw, who writes for the Gazette. While we were tasting the wines, I overheard Bill say, “Thank God Burgundy exists!”
2009 Chambolle – Musigny 1er Cru ‘Feusselottes’
Weightier mouthfil here, with ripe and refined tannins completing its round texture, perhaps best of the 1er crus.
2009 Morey -St.-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Faconniers’
Floral and delicate with juicy red wild berry notes and silky tannins.
2009 Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru ‘Vaucrains’
The earthiest and driest, tannins got a slight gritty edge here, needs some time in the bottle.
2009 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Epenots’
Fleshier with soft oak nuances yet to fully integrate, therefore give it some time in the cellar.
2009 Mazy – Chambertin Grand Cru
Note the spelling on the label, “Mazy”, the old way of spelling. This is fuller – style and age – worthy Pinot, its structure does not get in the way of its elegance.
2009 Echezaux Grand Cru
Bright and silky, extremely characterful and classic, pure and subduedly elegant.
2009 Corton Grand Cru
Very pristine, texturally speaking, yet so many things going on, waiting a bit will reward patience.
2009 Corton – Charlemagne Grand Cru
A fantastic wine, senseless to talk aromas and flavours, immaculate purity, integration and balance here.
2009 ‘Avalon’ Bourgogne
This is a great Bourgogne, very well structured and balanced, with opulent palate and wonderful freshness.
In addition, I tasted the soon to be released…
Tawse 2009 ‘Spark’
Traditional method sparkling wine. 100% Pinot Noir, truly excellent, with very good intensity and delicate mousse.
And, of course, I could not resist to re-taste and a rematch of…
Tawse 2009 Quarry Road’ Chardonnay and 2009 ‘Robyn’s Block’ Chardonnay
Both are wonderful. The first lighter and more focused, with citrus, smoke, stone/mineral reflexes; the second rich and impressive. Much depends on which style you prefer, but a tie for me.
All scores are out of five apples.
Read more of sommelier Zoltan Szabo at zoltanszabo.org and follow him at twitter.com/zoltanszabo.
